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Livingston, Guatemala
November 26, 2002
Bad joke, nice place. Livingston at one
time was an important port of call for the United Fruit
Company and other exports. Business has moved to the Atlantic
side since and has left Livingston searching for other
economic sources. Tourism is definitely one of them.
The town is situated on the north shore of the bay, up the hill from the dock. It is a laid back fishing village where the days are very hot and humid. The beaches are not particularly nice but what makes this place is the Garifuna people. They are the descendants of Carib natives and African slaves. Fresh seafood, the best drumming you have ever heard and Punta, the regional dance. Punta is a fast rhythmic shaking similar to meringue but 4 times as fast.
The 26th of November commemorates 200 years of freedom and reconciliation
for the Garifuna. Along the coast from Belize to the Honduras celebrations are occurring. The competition between groups is fierce. 3 regional groups from Honduras, Guatemala and Belize will try to win the flag for the best drumming, dancing and singing.
Last night on the 25th, there was a full evening of
folkloric dance and music. (See
photos and videos.) This included displays from
the Mayan people and the Latino quarter of Livingston.
The gymnasium was packed by 9 p.m. The elaborate costumes
and dances heightened the stories being related in the
dance.
5 generations of women did a traditional Guatemalan dance while lighting the altar in front of a figure of Christ. This was very reminiscent of Isabelle Allende's novel, "The House of the Spirits".
A Mayan chief and 4 dancers dressed as the Quetzal (national bird) did a Mayan ceremonial dance. The devil, 4 monkeys and an apple were next. A strange mixture of Catholicism and native symbolism.
Then yet another Mayan dance with dancers dressed as deer, an old couple, 2 jaguar and several other characters including the monkeys and the devil complete with fireworks wings concluded that portion of the show.
A Garifuna group from the Honduras concluded the evening with dancing, drumming and singing. It is hard to tell how many people are in the group as they share the stage at times with people from the audience. Also the drummers and dancers often switch roles. A drummer will stand up and throw the drum to a dancer and then take his place. Truly amazing.
The women by far have the greatest role. The lead singer conducts other members of the group in different moves. Also, the lead drummer will follow individual dancers rhythms and match them with syncopations on the drum. When the two connect you know it because the rhythm intensifies and big smiles of satisfaction appear on their faces. It is a competition but it is also a collaboration that lifts up the players.
So that concludes this portion of the trip. Tomorrow I leave Guatemala bound for the Honduras. I might try to find a nice beach and some quiet cabana for awhile. Heard of a place in Omoa called Roliís. If you are in the area say hello. I hear there is a communal guitar there. I will let you know.
Previous entry: Rio Dulce,
Guatemala
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